I am a bit of an anomaly in many ways. A product of more Anglophone Irish parents isn't possible: with roots in Argentina, often a "wanna" be Anglo place but not quite there; emigrated to Central Europe and Slavic lands( although that's questionable, nicht wahr?) in the Czech Republic. I have been living in Prague for more than one generation and have never tried a ceske pivo ( the breakfast food also known there as liquid bread which is beer); in the land of the tango, I remain without the custom of sipping mate, an infusion whose leaves come from a shrub and is of the same family as holly. Drinking mate is as much a part of the Argentine palate and daily intake as any grilled meat or pizza. But I do outdo any Argentine in my daily consumption of local Malbec wine!
I lived for more than one generation also in the United States, in Chicago, and never drove a car. Well, as a child that is understandable but in my second long period there as an adult ,it isn't, especailly in America. I went everywhere, although sometimes not easily, with public transportation and where public transportaion didn't take me, I didn't go. And until this day I do not know how to be behind the steering wheel and make it move. I DON'T DRIVE AND HAVE NO DESIRE TO DO SO! And after entering into the 2nd half of a century of my life on this earth, I doubt very much that I ever will! I know that this limits me especially in my travels but I still managed to get around the US, (including Southern California and Miami), Australia ( from Perth to Sydney including the vineyards in the Barossa Valley) and South Africa ( where no white person takes public transport). The other places where I often find myself either have very developed public transportation systems or don't have cars. Yes, how many cars have you seen driving down the street of Pyongyang or in the countryside of Moldova?
As a life-time public transportation user, Buenos Aires is a great city in its ability for getting the masses around the huge metropolis. Yes, the buses are very crowded and the subway or metro is like a sauna on wheels. Pickpockets are rife and strikes closing down lines are common place. But if you are lucky enough to have those precious coins hoarded and sold on the "black "market with which to board the buses, then you can be on your merry way.
And as a great fan of walking, my legs get a lot of exercise. In my other life in "smile land", I live at the top of a steep incline, call it a hill and must schlep not only myself but myself ladden with heavy bags. That is hundreds of pounds in motion! Daily, whether I go grocery shopping for the best deal 2 kilometers away, am leading tourists on a 7 hour walking tour under the 100F sun or just out and about to discover some street or area I want to know better, my walking shoes are on. Head down not to step in doggy "you know what", head up to look out for flying people, collapsing balconies or other falling objects. Can a 80 lb. dog be considered an object? Sure, why not! And look on both sides to see if someone is trying to snatch your bag or wallet. So almost a constant aerobic movement...for free.
So the upcoming paragraphs have little effect on the pedestrian.
The great minds which run not only this country...or is it run it dry?...as well as the city of Buenos Aires have gotten two heads together, which probably bumped and worsen their logical abilities, if this is possible but I see that it is, and have come up with ways to lighten the traffic in the city. No, it's not like in Mexico City or other places where certain license plates ending with odd or even number could circulate freely that day.
A side note to this is that often those who could afford a car could also afford a second one so that each vehicule had an odd or even number on its registration plate. Hmmm, I wonder if they had been to Buenos Aires before???
Some cities like London levied a tax on the cars entering into the center of the city. Some places even ban autos from entering. But we here changed the direction of the traffic..and then changed it again...and again...and again, on the same street! Such is the case of a street called Arenales.
Named in honor of Juan Antonio Alvarez de Arenales, an Argentine military man key in the independence of many South American countries, calle Arenales is a well known street which runs north and south for 30 blocks making it 3.75 mile or 6 kilometer long starting at Plaza San Martin in the heart of the city ending at the beautiful Botancial Gradens, Jardin Botanico, designed in the 19th century by the well-known French landscaper and architect, Jules Charles Thys, known here as Carlos Thys. It runs adjacent to the well-known avenida Santa Fe, a Michigan Avenue of Chicago or Kurfurstendamm of Berlin. A tree- lined street with up-scale shops and restaurants and other businesses as well as high upper-middle class apartments. It's also the street on which I live. And as the direction of the traffic was also just recently changed on Santa Fe within the past few months, much has gone to Arenales. But watch out! It's not as straight forward as that.
Our city fathers have decided that Arenales will be north bound for a few blocks, then south bound, then north again, south and finally north. Can you imagine the confusion? And to add insult to injury, to continue northbound, only taxis or buses can go to adjacent Santa Fe as it is closed off to cars going north-bound which means they must go towards the river and make huge diversions to reach their destination which is often just one street away.Taxis and buses left; cars right, then all straight, taxis right,cars left, now 1 or 5 blocks depending if you are a car or taxi, then right or left on Arenales for a few blocks until the next change of direction comes and relive it all over again and again and again. UNA LOCURA TOTAL or to put it into local vernacular, a TOTAL F... UP! Mass confusion at street intersections, higher taxi fares due to the divesrions and more gas consumed by the average driver. And in part, the changes were done to lessen air pollution. That really makes sense.... drive another unnecessary mile and not pollute the air.
But I almost never take taxis and don't drive. But I do walk, now more than ever much more carefully down Arenales and quickly cross its intersections as I jump back or forward as the stressed driver turns where he or she didn't know about the now mandatory diversion while cursing at me for being in the way on the zebra stripes.
We really owe the mayor a big abrazo(hug) and gracias. He gave the drivers now opportunities to see more of this beautiful city and he gave us, the pedestrians, lessons on quick reflexes and aerobics on the streets of Buenos Aires. I wonder if I can ask him for a safety helmut.
Mind your step!
SES
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